At 7:00 AM, the big top rises. In matching tracksuits, the retirees power-walk in a circling stampede, discussing politics and gallbladders. By 10:00 AM, they are drinking kefir (fermented milk) pumped from a medical carbonated spring. By 2:00 PM, the entertainment begins: competitive table tennis, ballroom dancing, and "health trails" that are essentially speed-hiking with a flask of cognac hidden in a fanny pack.